Professor Marblestone

On Tuesday, a great man died, Howard Marblestone. He was my classics teacher at Lafayette, and in all honesty the man who started me on my path towards studying ancient history. Always kind and gentle, he always came to class with tales of ancient history or mythology and a smile. He was a great professor not because his teaching style was so unique or amazing, but rather because he was more concerned that you learned what he taught. His syllabi were more of a guideline then a rule. If a certain era took him longer to teach, it was fine. If you or the class had a problem with an exam or paper due date, he was flexible. He made learning not a tedious, difficult challenge, but rather something enjoyable. While his lectures were not always exciting, they were full of information and he was able to keep them interesting with fun anecdotes of ancient history.

My first class with him was in Ancient Greece, where I grew to enjoy and look forward to. He spent the time and effort to learn everyone’s name in the class (a remarkable achievement with a class of 45 students). I didn’t really know him that well at that time, but I decided to take his class on Ancient Rome the following year. This was the beginning of my relationship with him. He remembered me from the previous year, and we often would joke about some of the ancient history we were discussing while in class. When I saw he was teaching a class in Classical Mythology, I jumped. While I knew a lot of mythology already, I got the chance to take a class on the subject and learn more about how the Greeks used religion as the basis for their society. Looking back now, I wish I had taken the chance to take either Latin or Greek from him, as languages were his true passion. I regret not getting closer to him, but what I learned from him I shall always treasure.

Upon hearing of his death, I was shocked. I went out on the balcony outside the Academic Center here in Athens and I stared for a while at the scenery, and the Acropolis. He sent me an email about a week ago telling me about his first trip to Athens and seeing the Acropolis. He said “In a way, that feeling of wonder and awe never ceases, only intensifies.” I have come to realize he is right. He dedicated himself to all things ancient, and while his focus was mostly on linguistics, he willingly taught the history classes which eventually brought me here to Athens. He was even willing to help me on thesis next year in any way he could, despite his retirement. To this end, I’m dedicating this blog and all my experiences and memories I make here in Greece to his memory. I shall always remember him, and what he taught me. RIP.

Acropolis/Agora/Temple of Olympian Zeus

So, this was a somewhat busy weekend.

I went on Saturday to Mt. Perneli (see my last entry) and on Sunday I woke up early and went to the Acropolis in order to try and beat out the smog. I was quite successful, as it was a gorgeous day full of sun and warmth. After a brisk but short walk (it's amazing how close everything is around here) I made it to the Acropolis's southern face. Throughout the trip, my awe continually increased. As I approached the hill, it kept getting taller and taller, and seemed impenetrable. How the Persians in 490 BCE managed to attack the Acropolis and sack it is a mystery to me. It seems literally impenetrable to me.

Moving beyond my awe, there are literally ruins every way you look. It reminded me of the Roman Forum in that there are columns and blocks scattered throughout the area. Seeing this place when everything was still standing must have truly been a sight. The most important ruins on the southern slope are the two theaters, the Theater of Dionysus and the Theater of Herodes Atticus. The Theater of Dionysus was sadly in poor shape, with it mostly being covered in grass, but the the Theater of Herodes Atticus was truly a sight. Built in the Roman period, it was stunningly rebuilt in 1951 and is STILL used today. I can't even begin to imagine what a show is like in that space. I'm dying to know what the acoustics are like, but sadly I couldn't get on the stage :-(. Oh well, I imagine they are excellent.

I don't think i came up the main entrance, because on the way down there was more. But walking through the Propylaia was insane. Sadly, they're still restoring it and everything else on the Acropolis (stupid 20th century historians/archaeologists doing a bad job...) But it's still an impressive sight. The Temple of Athenian Nike also is missing as it's restored off site. Again, it was a truly spectacular view entering into the Acropolis. It's amazing thinking that this is how the ancient Greeks entered into the Acropolis. People like Pericles, Themistocles, Demosthenes, and so many others walked where I walked. The marble is so worn from everyone walking over it, it's slippery, but to me that just shows you how amazing the site is that millions of people have traveled to here.

The first thing I actually saw when i got into the Acropolis was the Parthenon obviously. It's a remarkable building, massively rising overhead, looming. Sadly, it is covered in scaffoldings to continue the repairs, and while it definitely detracts from the sight, it's still so worth it. The next amazing building was the Erectheium and Caryatids. The Caryatids are replicas, but you'd never know it. They look so simple and elegant, but are masterfully carved and placed. The rest of the Erecthium is an interesting building. Not quite as spectacular as the Parthenon, it is still a large and massive structure. Interestingly, it has 3 solid walls and then a side open with columns. What appears to be the main entrance is in fact on the side opposite the Parthenon. As I turned back to look at the Parthenon, I was struck at how amazing it must have been with a roof. Considering how imposing it looks now, it's hard to imagine. Stupid Veneitians putting an artillery shell through it, and even more stupid Ottomans for storing gunpowder in there.

As I walked out, I first climbed up on the hill to the west of the Acropolis, and it was quite a view. I took a panorama which can be seen in my album. After climbing down, I went into the Ancient Agora. This really reminded me of the Roman Forum with few rebuilt buildings, mostly things in ruin. The one truly exceptional building was the rebuilt Stoa, which now serves as a museum as well, housing several relics. My favorite of these was the Ostraka used to exile Themistocles. Ostraka were used as a means to prevent a dictator, as if the Athenian people voted in a majority using ostraka (pieces of clay with the name of the person they wanted to exile), the person being exiled was forced to leave Attica for 10 years. Pretty cool that they found them. The Stoa itself was incredible, as it provided an representation of what the building must have looked like, which was, to me, interesting.

I also passed by the Roman Forum, as it was small and largely unimpressive. It's worth a walk-by though, as there are several standing columns, and the Tower of the Wind on the eastern corner. Plaka (the area to the North of the Acropolis) is certainly tourist-center of Athens, but an interesting neighborhood, full of shops and tavernas (none of them good from what i hear). It was a pedestrian area though, which was a nice change compared with all the busy streets around Athens.

Finally, I went to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. This building took 700 years to build due to lack of funds. It is an immense building, making you feel small and insignificant. While only a small corner remains, it's enough to allow you to imagine what it would have looked like if it was still standing. I was barely taller than the base (if even that) of the columns.

After all this walking...I went back and took a nap.

Mt. Perneli

This weekend we climbed Mt. Perneli, which is to the north of Athens. It provides a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside, all the way from Marathon to Piraeus. When we climbed to the top, it was extremely cold and windy, but that didn't stop us from having a good time. The hike was fairly easy, with there being a very slight incline for most of the trip up. It didn't take long either, about an hour to get to the mountain, an hour or so up, then matching times going down.

The view was what made the trip worth it. Even on a cloudy, windy, cold day, the sights were gorgeous. Being able to see Marathon for the first time, and even all the way to the Piraeus was a fantastic sight. The pictures I took don't even do them credit. The wind was truly fun as it could almost support you at times. It almost blew my contacts out as well. Getting a perspective on Attica and how large and beautiful an area it is was well worth the cold. Areas like this don't exist back in the States. On the one hand, there's a big, large, sprawling city, then pretty quickly there's beautiful, green farmland.

The mountain is protected by the EU against development, so thankfully it will remain the way it is for years to come. However, it is not immune to disasters. There were clear signs of fires which devastated parts of the mountain, leaving little but charred rock. I hope it all grows back, as it was truly a sight to see.

Tomorrow (or maybe tonight) i'll post about the Acropolis, which i also visited this weekend and that TRULY was fantastic!

Tavernas

Last night, CYA arranged for all those who signed up to go to a taverna with a faculty member. For 15 Euro it was not the cheapest meal possible, but it was certainly worth the price. The food was fantastic. I can't even remember all that I had (and certainly can't remember the names) but it was all delicious. There was bread, feta cheese, some meatballs with herbs in them, fried zucchini (yes i know, i had zucchini!), and a stewed beef on top of french fries with some vegetables as well. All in all, i walked away stuffed. I have to find out what i had last night, because it was all very good. I was a bit worried about Greek food, but if last night was any indication of what's available...i don't think i'm going to have a problem. Greek food gets two thumbs up!

This weekend i'm hiking up Mt. Pendeli and hopefully going to the Acropolis/Agora/everything i can get to that surrounds the Acropolis. Look for pics then!

Lycabettus Hill

I woke up somewhat early this morning because i'm still adjusting to the timezone i guess, but decided i'd try and get up Lycabettus Hill. Also known as the "Hill of the Wolves," the hill provides a spectacular view of the city. However, you have to get up there very early otherwise you run into conflict with the Athenian smog, which is not so bad as some places i have been to, but it certainly ruined a spectacular view. I wasn't really in the mood to climb the hill (though i may go back later and try and beat the smog by going earlier) so i rode the funicular to the top. All in all, it was a very short trip, with taking pictures and seeing the small church at the top taking all of 30 minutes. It was certainly worth it as the view gave me a perspective of the city. It is immense to say the least. It extends for miles in every direction, very similar to LA. There is a theater built up on top of the hill as well, but it is only open in the summer (very disappointing). The church was small and simple, but worth going into and viewing some of the religious iconography of the Easter Orthodox faith. All in all, a short but interesting trip. Tonight, I'm off to a taverna for some classic Greek food and atmosphere.

Day 1

Arriving in Athens was simply spectacular. Flying in over the snow capped mountains and hills while the sun began to rise was a sight beyond words. It's truly a beautiful country. Getting to Athens was another story. I found the CYA people and got in a cab with another student (one who i had met before while at the consulate), and proceeded on a fast cab ride. I've never seen drivers drive so fast or change lanes so often, but i made it here in one piece. Making my way up to my apartment, I found out that none of my roomates were in yet, so i had my pick of room. Having made plans to meet up with the guy from the taxi ride and walk to the Academic Center, i soon left the apartment and made my way down. When i finally got here, i was impressed. The building is fairly modern with several floors and spacious areas perfect for study. It was a whirlwind of meeting people, talking, trying to figure out all i needed to do, going out and finding an ATM, it was absolute chaos. I finally got it all taken care of and headed back to my apartment. Having picked up my laptop and did a little more unpacking, i decided to come back down to the Academic Center to send out emails and meet more people. I got my new phone number for Greece and called home to a few people. That's about as far as i've gotten today, and tonight looks like it's going to be a meet the roomates/get some dinner/relax night. More tomorrow i'm sure.

Till later.

P.S. I had my first view of the Acropolis today. It's simply STUNNING. Words cannot describe it. I can see it from where i'm sitting right now while the sun sets, which is truly outstanding. I have pictures which i'll post soon.